After traveling across Costa Rica, we made our way towards Panama. Our first stop was the Bocas del Toro Province, an archipelago that lies at the southern tip of Isla Colón, in the Caribbean Sea and northwest of Panama.
Bocas is a largely undiscovered mecca for surfing that has been compared to what Hawaii, Bali, and the Maldives were like over 20 years ago. Surf was some of the best our son in law had experienced (Paunch Reef, Dumpers, and Bluff Beach).
Having a young couple with us made it that much more interesting. Web sites, travel blogs, and tourist information cautioned us to avoid the main island (Isla Colon) but we didn’t listen. Instead, we found it open, warm, lively, and colourful. The place was quiet through the day and it pumped at night. It was hot and humid, and we walked or cycled everywhere.
The accommodation was mostly booked out because one of their annual four-day festivals was taking place. Bocas del Toro is a party island and a backpacking destination. It’s easy to get to from the US, everyone speaks English, and the currency is even US dollars. But there is another part of Bocas del Toro that’s less about parties and more about pristine beaches and beautiful jungle hideaways.
It was here I first discovered the best biscuit I have ever tasted. Alfajores is an Argentinian sweet biscuit made from creamy milk caramel, sandwiched between two crisp and buttery shortbread cookies.
We stayed in Casco Viejo, San Felipe, the old city’s heart, popular for its lively dining and nightlife scene. Cocktail lounges, rooftop bars, and global restaurants line streets decorated with elaborate murals. Colonial-era landmarks include the twin-towered Metropolitan Cathedral and the waterfront Palacio de las Garzas presidential home. We wandered through the night, ate beautiful food and savoured the old city. We promised ourselves we would be back. We were miles from home, in another world, and another culture. Life was good.
